The National Museum of Women in the Arts is another in the series of museums established primarily due to a collector donating his or her large collection. This museum is unusual in that its founders are still alive, still collecting, and still donating. The idea for this collection and museum is relatively recent--the founders began collecting in the 1960s.
The museum covers art by women from the sixteenth century to modern day. There are fewer pieces from the sixteenth through eighteenth centuries than later ones, a testament to the limited opportunities of women. Indeed, many rooms have wall labels explaining the difficulties of being a female artist in the time of the work shown in the room. Some items' labels elaborate on how particular women overcame these difficulties. For what it's worth, an example of a difficulty only overcome in the twentieth century: artists traditionally learn to paint figures realistically by studying nudes. For women this was not considered an option.
The museum is pretty much exclusively Western art (i.e., art from women in American and Europe). I'm not sure if it's due to the preferences/knowledge of the original founder/collectors or if it's an implicit statement about the art opportunities available to women in the rest of the world.
It's small; I explored it in under an hour.
I took pictures in the museum.
Many months later I returned for its new special exhibits. It took about an hour to see them--about half the museum's space is allocated to special exhibits. (There were none when I visited during the winter; that space was simply closed off.)
I saw the large special exhibit, Royalists to Romantics, of French women artists in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. It had rooms of paintings of family scenes and of still life (both socially acceptable subjects for women painters) as well as of portraits (slightly less acceptable) and of historical scenes (mostly unacceptable). The historical paintings were lavish color paintings in the Troubadour style. Many paintings in this exhibit were displayed at the time of their painting in French salons.
As in the permanent collection, many plaques explained women's difficulty in advancing as artists because, for one, they were ineligible for most contests and fellowships.
There was also a special exhibit of unusually designed or illustrated books, including pop-ups and books that unfold to be meters long. Some didn't look like books at all except that somewhere in the piece of art is paper with words or drawings.
A tiny special exhibit showed objects by women silversmiths, mostly items one sees on dinner tables.
The special exhibit of letters by Diego Rivera's wife, Frida Kahlo (also an independent painter) to and from her mother, tell the story of a woman making a life in a land far from home.
Another special exhibit had art by the nun Mary Corita. She made graphic art in a similar pop-art style as Andy Warhol using stencils and silkscreening techniques.
The National Museum of Women in the Arts is another in the series of museums established primarily due to a collector donating his or her large collection. This museum is unusual in that its founders are still alive, still collecting, and still donating. The idea for this collection and museum is relatively recent--the founders began collecting in the 1960s.
Posted by mark at Saturday, June 30, 2012
On a rainy Saturday morning, I trotted over the Art Museum of the Americas. Though I arrived at 10:20am--twenty minutes after opening--I was the first visitor.
It is a small museum, more like a gallery, comprising six rooms displaying recent work by South American artists. I spent less than fifteen minutes there. Then, with much more time than I expected, I planned what to do next. I decided to spend a while exploring some of the memorials on the mall, as reported in another post.
At another time, I went to an Art-Museum-of-the-America's-sponsored exhibit at the Organization of American States building. The exhibit, Lost Worlds: Ruins of the Americas, showed black-and-white photographs of ruins from North, Central, and South America. The photographs were a nice reminder of the number of and diversity of civilizations on the American continent. One often hears about ruins in Europe; these American ruins are no less numerous, varied, or impressive. Incidentally, as with the main museum's exhibit, I took less than fifteen minutes to see it.
Many months later, I returned to the Art Museum of the Americas to see its newest exhibit, New York: Latin American and Spanish artists in New York. I re-learned that contemporary art isn't really my thing. One series of work in this museum, however, is worth mentioning: The Real Story of the Superheroes by Dulce Pinzon. It's both creative and sweet. He photographs immigrants who send money back home (to Mexico) in superhero costumes. How apropos: they're probably superheroes to their families. The thumbnail at the top of the linked exhibit page shows one of his pieces: a window-washer dressed as spiderman.
Posted by mark at Friday, June 29, 2012
The Ripley Center is a small museum located underground between the Sackler Gallery and the National Museum of African Art. It has room for three decent-sized exhibits.
I feel one exhibit will stick with me. In Fabric of Survival, Esther Nisenthal Krinitz tells her personal experience of the Holocaust through fabric art that portrays scenes from her life. It's a stark tale about Nazi brutality and her family's move to a concentration camp while she stayed behind and traveled from village to village hiding. I examined every scene and read every caption.
Obviously she survived and made it to America and in her old age made this art. I wonder what made her do it? Was it to capture a memory? A method of coping?
Posted by mark at Thursday, June 28, 2012
The National Museum of African Art, architecturally almost a mirror of the Sackler, is small but visually interesting. I took pictures. I'm sorry it appears I didn't take any pictures of the typical statues, masks, etc. in the museum. (None are things I want in my home, and I forgot to photograph them for documentary purposes.)
I liked that every item has a description/explanation.
Though the museum supposedly has a large collection, only a little is on continuous display; most of the display space is devoted to special exhibits.
The Nigerian special exhibit had a few video displays, some of rare, old footage of ceremonies, some documentary. I appreciated that there was no talking in these films--whatever language there was was displayed on the screen. The only sound was African music, music that added a nice soundtrack to walking around the exhibit.
Inside this exhibit was an interesting sign with a discussion about the difficulty in determining provenance and origin of many of these pieces. Many of the items go into more detail about this issue, explaining how an item was collected in W and attributed to X (because that was where the person who sold it to a collector at W acquired it), and then thought to be from Y, but now historians think it's from Z because of ... Meanwhile, for some objects other labels admit that they cannot describe how the native peoples used them because no one has ever seen those objects in situ.
Months later, I returned for a special exhibit on the photographer Lalla Essaydi. A Moroccan by birth, many of her photographs are self-portraits of herself posed by Islamic architecture. Her clothes' pattern copy the building's pattern, making her part of / integrated with the scene. Sometimes she even paints her skin with henna script, accentuating the effect when there is similarly flowing writing nearby. It's a creative idea and the results are strangely fascinating.
In other photographs (and two paintings), she composed scenes modeled off famous paintings by Western artists, yet her composition includes Moroccan women and North African decorations. I also like this strategy, making art that comments on others' art.
Posted by mark at Wednesday, June 27, 2012
I visited the Freer & Sackler Galleries twice for their special exhibits. I saw their permanent collections when I visited them four years earlier. My impression of these museums hasn't changed: they're filled mostly with Asian artifacts which generally aren't my thing, and the collections aren't impressive or significant enough to make up for my diminished interest. I liked marginally more the two rooms of American at in the Freer, most filled with paintings by Whistler.
In the regular collection, I enjoyed the handful of Japanese screens and scrolls that show everyday people and everyday life. The best example of this is Autumn at Asakusa and Cherry Blossoms at Ueno Park by Hishikawa Moronobu.
In the museums I also noted again that Japanese do a great job with scary sculptures of strong warriors who guard the Buddha and defeat demons.
None of the special exhibits I saw on my first visit to these museums this year are worth describing in particular.
On the second visit, at the Sackler I saw the special exhibit of Hokusai's series of color woodblock prints involving Mount Fuji. (Usually Mount Fuji is merely in the background.) He's a Japanese artist famous for his "Great Wave" print (a.k.a. Under the Wave of Kanagawa) that everyone has seen. His works aren't my style, but I thought the variety of the scenes--all with one common theme--was neat.
But the scale of that exhibit was nothing compared with the scope of the special exhibit of Buddhist scroll paintings by Kano Kazunobu. In this series of more than fifty large scrolls from his series of a hundred, many scrolls have such vibrant colors and elegant composition that they could be used to convince people that Japanese art can rival the best of Western religious art. Again, not that these are things I particularly like, but I appreciate the quality.
On this second visit to the Sackler, I saw other new exhibits that aren't worth mentioning.
The Freer had two small special exhibits of Hokusai's art: one a series of long painted folding screens and the other a handful of scroll paintings. In both I appreciated the crispness of the painting and the depths of the colors. I'm surprised how much more I like his screens and scrolls than his woodblock work--I guess the medium is important.
In the Freer's exhibit on birds in Chinese painting, I enjoyed learning the symbolism involved in some paintings, where the birds and plants are homonyms in Chinese to a message the artist wished to convey.
Posted by mark at Tuesday, June 26, 2012
I visited the Renwick Gallery, a branch of the American Art Museum (which I also visited, naturally). The Renwick Gallery is supposedly meant to focus on the crafts and decorative arts. When I visited, the displays from the permanent collection included many oil paintings, plus things made from clay, glass, wood, fabric, plastic, mixed media (the term museums use to mean none- or many-of-the-above, including electronics). Most of the non-paintings are recent works. It felt like a haphazard collection, like overflow from the main museum of things that didn't go in any of the exhibits there but the curators felt ought to be on display somewhere.
It's a small museum. I took a bit over an hour to see it all and take all the notes I wanted.
The special exhibit on decorative art objects from the White House showcased furniture, tableware, and more. I wish I could have taken pictures in this exhibit because some of the objects were stunning. Each item's history was described. Some of these labels told neat stories, explaining when/where/how the object was made/acquired, what various presidents thought of it, and (possibly consequently) if it was later sold or put in the attic (and, if so, when it was re-acquired).
This exhibit included a cool short film, At Home in the White House, which interviewed people who grew up in the White House (and a few first ladies as well) and explored what it was like living in such a historic space. I enjoyed hearing their recollections about how they made the White House their home and what they and their parents thought of particular furnishings and decorations.
I took pictures elsewhere in the museum.
Posted by mark at Monday, June 25, 2012
Over the course of many months, I visited the National Portrait Gallery and the American Art Museum, both co-located in the Old Patent Office, now known as the Reynolds Center. Because the museums stayed open to 7pm--later than most--I usually visited these museums in the evening.
I took pictures on these excursions.
The old building is splendid, both inside and out, as you see in the pictures. I especially like its covered interior modern courtyard.
National Portrait Gallery
I found the exhibit on American Origins, of portraits of historic figures, surprisingly interesting. I usually find portrait galleries boring. This time, as usual, I found the paintings boring. But, however, the text beside each painting tells interesting stories of the people and why they are important. It turned out to be more like a history lesson than an art museum. I read most of the labels because of the tales they told. Di Yin, meanwhile, thought they were boring.
I had a similar reaction to the other exhibits in the permanent collection, which holds portraits through the modern day. For instance, in the exhibit on twentieth-century sports stars (even though I hadn't heard of the majority of them), I enjoyed reading the blurbs about why they were famous (and some color about their personalities). Likewise, in an exhibit of presidential portraits, I read every item because each has a good summary of the subject and how he was viewed. These summaries are often better than the discussions I remember in my high school history books.
Di Yin says this is one of those rare museums that's "unabashedly about people."
Like the biographies in the portraits, the room descriptions are good too. For instance, the summaries of changes that occurred in 1900-1930, 1930-1950, etc. in each of these rooms are remarkably detailed, colorful, and, as I understand it, accurate.
The special exhibit on modern Asian-American portraitists was alright, with one major and one minor exception. The minor exception is Shizu Saldamando, who achieved a neat look by painting portraits directly on wood (with no background behind the faces), not canvas.
The major exception is an artist who goes by the name CYJO. I found her KYOPO Project fascinating. Kyopo comprises photos of Korean-Americans, all in the same neutral pose and with the same background. Each person wears his or her normal clothes. Accompanying each photograph is a few sentence statement from each about what being Korean-American means to them. The project's an engrossing ethnographic study. Di Yin and I looked at every photograph and read every statement.
In the special exhibit on Gertrude Stein, I relearned that I don't have the same fascination with her that many other people have. I learned--perhaps incorrectly--from her that "punctuation is necessary only for the feeble-minded." Perhaps more usefully, I learned the term Boston marriage refers to two highly educated unmarried women living together.
I felt that The Black List, the special exhibit of large-format photographs of highly accomplished African Americans (all vivid images with their subjects gazing directly at the camera), was a perfect use of the Portrait Gallery space. I enjoyed looking at the photographs, recognizing certain people I'd heard of and reading about the people I hadn't.
I was surprised to enjoy the special exhibit on Ronald Reagan. I learned stuff about his personality and his background and about his many careers before the presidency that I didn't know before.
American Art Museum
The American Art Museum seems to be about art made in America. For some reason I'd expected American Art to refer to a coherent style, not an assortment of styles joined by loose geographical ties. While I was still getting attuned to the museum's collection, I was surprised to see paintings of American Indians. They make sense in retrospect, but it didn't occur to me that they'd be there.
Most pieces in this museum don't have commentary.
Oddly (in terms of overlap), the American Art Museum has some portraits. The lack of explanations on these was particularly disconcerting given the full coverage in the portrait gallery.
In the impressionist section, I noticed there are a lot of works by two people I never heard of before: Childe Hassam and Thomas Dewing.
To the modern art collection (which included video art) as a whole, I say bleh.
One day I went with E and Di Yin to the special exhibit on The Art of Video Games. It was a small exhibit that used lots of videos both of games and of interviews with game designers. I enjoyed seeing how it broke down the evolution of video games into eras; it turns out I mostly played games from era 3: bit wars. I also liked seeing the classification of various types of games (action, target, adventure, tactics) along with examples of every type for every game system from every era.
There were also places to play games from each era on big screens. Other screens played videos of people's faces as they played games. (These videos were pre-recorded; they weren't a loop from the other section of the exhibit.) It's neat to see the different expressions: stoned, zoned out, engaged, calm, etc.
The exhibit felt like a stroll down memory lane. Nevertheless, I was disappointed. It felt lightweight. Not only was there not much about the art but in general there wasn't much about any of the main themes--art, science, and storytelling--described in the introduction. The exhibit was predominately composed of examples of games and a classification system around them.
Luce Foundation Center for American Art
The Luce Foundation Center is also housed in the upper three stories in one of the building's wings. It's an open-storage area, meaning a high density of items are displayed with little or no information. Many items are labeled only with an accession number. You can look up what an item is electronically but there are no explanatory labels. Basically, the Center is a feast for the eyes; reading about items isn't made easy.
This open-storage area is the most beautiful of any I've seen. The space is great. Even if the objects aren't worth examining--most are worth no more than a passing glance--it's worth wandering around the area. Look at the pictures.
The Center has some nice paintings.
Also, I enjoyed how the drawers open smoothly with the sound of pressurized air.
Finally, although I didn't try any, I appreciate that the Luce Foundation has a series of scavenger hunts in addition to its audio tours. I wonder why more museums don't do this.
Lunder Conservation Center
The Lunder Conservation Center is also in the same building. It's next to the Luce Center. The Conservation Center is a series of labs (devoted to either objects, paintings, paper, frames) with floor-to-ceiling glass walls so visitors can watch the conservators at work. It's also neat to see the machines in each lab. Too bad photography is prohibited there.
All the labs have a machine with a twelve-inch-wide stretchable bendable pipe. I couldn't figure out what it is for. Venting? If so, why?
Elsewhere in the Building
In a part of the building not part of either museum, there was a display that I liked of models of inventions; the exhibit is called Building a Better Mousetrap. In early days, the patent office required models in addition to description and diagrams. These models are displayed in the exhibit by courtesy of a collector; the patent office sold/returned/donated all its models in 1924. They're all scattered by now.
Posted by mark at Sunday, June 24, 2012
I visited the Hirshhorn on an earlier trip to Washington D.C. I returned twice during this stay in D.C.
On my first trip, I saw a few special exhibits but none that I feel like mentioning here. My impression of the Hirshhorn remains the same as from my earlier visit: the collection in general is too abstract for my tastes. There was very little commentary. Maybe I'd be more accepting of these works if there were more commentary to explain the pieces, their meaning, and their significance in the evolution of art.
Later I returned to the Hirshhorn to see new exhibits, including one by light artists that was fun and a feast for the eyes.
I took pictures on both trips.
Posted by mark at Saturday, June 23, 2012
Years ago, I visited National Gallery of Art fairly comprehensively over two visits (one, two). Hence, during this stint in the National Gallery I focused on the special exhibits. Here I mention a few that were remarkable in some way (though not necessarily up my alley).
The special exhibit on Andy Warhol focused on his work as a headline painter--making paintings that look like the front page of newspapers (often tabloids)--and as a television producer, both aspects of Warhol's work I wasn't aware of.
The special exhibit on Antico displayed his finely sculpted bronzes. He did an especially good job with hair and with fabrics.
The Pastrana Tapestries are incredible. I can believe the introductory text that claims they're "among the finest gothic tapestries in existence." These large tapestries, appropriate for a great hall, are engaging despite it being a bit hard to make out specifically what's going on. Di Yin says it may be because the inanimate objects (shields, flags, etc.) are brightly colored, not the animate ones. It's thus hard to spot individual people such as the King.
The conservators did a great job conserving the tapestries. (The exhibit had some before and after shots of the preservation process.) The tapestries' wavy surface reminded me of this story published in The New Yorker about digitally preserving a different set of famous tapestries.
The Chester Dale Collection was on display. Chester Dale had a great collection of paintings (mostly French), including Picasso, Renoir, rare blue van Goghs, Matisse, Degas, Modigliani, Cassatt, Cezanne, Gauguin, Toulouse-Lautrec, and a number of top-notch Monets. Wow. I took a ton of pictures.
One special exhibit contained only one painting: Samuel Morse's painting Gallery of the Louvre. It belongs in my photographic collection of paintings of paintings.
In the special exhibit on photographer Harry Callahan, I found this rather shocking label attached to one piece:
Immensely supportive of her husband and his work, Eleanor Callahan regarded his photographing her as simply a part of their daily lives. She later recalled that she might be cooking or cleaning when Callahan, seeing something of potential interest, would say, "'Take off your clothes. And that would be that!"Wow. For what it's worth, Callahan photographed a wide variety of subjects--animate and inanimate--over his fifty-year career.
I liked the I Spy photography special exhibit for its voyeuristic qualities. Walker Evans photographed random people on the subway or on the street. Robert Frank took pictures from a moving bus. Philip-Lorca diCorcia managed to take celebrity/glamour shots of unsuspecting people by manipulating or adding and positioning lights on the street so that if a person walked through the right spot the lighting would be perfect. He has some amazing results.
There was a special exhibit devoted to George Bellows. He painted a variety of subjects. I tend to like his landscapes, both rural and urban.
I liked the Miro special exhibit. I enjoyed seeing how his style evolved before (and after) his switch to weird symbolism. Also, I especially liked the busy patterns in Miro's Constellations group paintings on display (scroll down to second-to-last section for an example). In addition to presenting his work, the exhibit also explained how Miro's life was tossed and turned by Spain's and Catalonia's troubles in the twentieth century, especially with the Fascists.
I took pictures in the few special exhibits that permitted photography and also of some items that struck me in the permanent collection that I hadn't photographed in earlier years.
Posted by mark at Friday, June 22, 2012
The National Museum of Natural History is a mere two blocks from my apartment. I dropped into it sporadically for short visits; science museums aren't really my thing. It's exactly as I remember: filled with fossils and skeletons and more oh my! It covers land, sea, and sky. The fossils are neat and often impressive though not something that I want to stare at for long or read much about.
Sometimes I took pictures on these visits.
One Tuesday when my parents were in town we visited the live butterfly pavilion. (We picked Tuesday because entry is free on Tuesdays.) It was great! See the pictures. The pavilion contains many species of butterflies, no two alike. They have exquisite patterns, all works of art. "I love it," said my mom. "Wonderful." I like the fact that they have to check you for butterflies before you leave--sometimes the butterflies hitch a ride on your clothing or your hat without you knowing it.
Also during this visit we stopped by the special exhibit More Than Meets The Eye on visualizing things that cannot be seen with the naked eye.
We also explored part of (before we ran out of time) the engrossing special exhibit Written in Bone on making anthropologic inferences from bones. It focused mainly on bones found in the Chesapeake Bay region. The exhibit showed how bones can indicate what profession people were (tailor, shoemaker, etc.). It also discussed how bones can show the difference between the upper and lower classes. For instance, upper class people had worse teeth (because they could eat more sugar) and upper class people more often had lead poisoning (because they used metal utensils, often lead, while the lower classes used wooden ones). I guess it's sometimes better to be a member of the lower classes.
I learned what bones are more useful for identification and how anthropologists read them.
The exhibit also showed examples of how bones look after different types of injuries, and how the results depends on whether the damage occurred before, at, or after death. It's fascinating but also a bit disturbing seeing how bones can change in response to normal harms like osteoporosis, lack of exercise, etc.
Elsewhere, the gemstone/jewelry collection is incredible. So pretty!
The Evolving Universe special exhibit showed awesome pictures of nebulas and galaxies.
The special exhibit on 2011 award-winning nature photograph was pretty amazing. Some photography makes it incredibly easy to anthropomorphize animals. Also, many landscape scenes are majestic, especially the winner in the Plant Life category. You can view it and all the photographs. Of course, the feeling is different when the photos are shown as prints the size of posters.
One special exhibit, Titanoboa, simply showed a model of a recently-discovered giant snake. The model is of a 48-foot-long snake eating a crocodile! And this is all based on fossil evidence and hypotheses. The exhibit consisted mainly of informative signs explaining what they've inferred about the snake.
Posted by mark at Thursday, June 21, 2012
Sporadically, I stole time to drop in the National Museum of American History, seeing a couple of exhibits each time. This was easy because it was near my apartment; I often visited it before work.
The museum is huge. I like how it conveys information, especially in the displays in the main halls. It shows objects that are not important in themselves but explains (in three sentences) how each represents its time and reflects a broad societal situation.
I took only a few pictures in the museum, mainly of displays that struck me.
The museum has some singularly important artifacts such as the flag that flew over Baltimore's Fort McHenry during the War of 1812 that inspired Francis Scott Key to write The Star-Spangled Banner. The flag is large, much bigger than any flag you see nowadays. Also, it has fifteen stars. Incidentally, I learned that Francis Scott Key wrote the song to the tune of a British song (!), To Anacreon in Heaven. I also learned that the base commander's descendants kept the flag for a century and gave clippings of it to friends.
Another important artifact is the original Washington monument/memorial. It's nothing like the current one.
The exhibit on first ladies, their role, and especially their gowns/dresses, is interesting if only for the section of the exhibit that explains that this exhibit existed in one form or another for nearly a hundred years and describes how it has evolved. The exhibit was renovated while I lived in Washington D.C. I saw the new version and liked reading about what causes the first ladies championed in their public lives. This was in the earlier exhibit; I simply noticed it more/paid more attention to it in the new iteration.
I enjoyed the special exhibit on Julia Child, especially the videos of interviews with her and her demonstrations. She's a hoot! Also, now I want to buy a buffalo iron to make it easier to blanch vegetables. I liked this exhibit so much that, every time I went to the museum, I stopped by it (until it closed) to watch more videos.
In one display in another exhibit, I learned that Cincinnati was a popular destination for Jewish immigrants in the nineteenth century. The extensive display explores the phenomenon and its effects.
A nearby, similarly extensive, display about the experience of African Americans in Charleston at the same time is poignant for its dramatic contrast.
The exhibit on invention and play was neat: I enjoyed reading about inventions, inventors, and their processes. There is some interactive stuff here, including a full-sized (mechanical) windsurfer/sailboat simulator. Cool!
One exhibit, by tracing the history of a house, tells a series of household cultural stories (slavery, immigration, and home life changes brought on by war).
Another exhibit presents a portrait of the life & events in a particular year (1939): media, music, radio, world's fair, WPA (Works Progress/Projects Administration), heroes (real and fictional).
The musical instruments exhibit includes four of the world's eleven decorated Stradivari. Why the museum has Italian instruments, I don't know. Nothing in this exhibit is presented in connection to everyday life; as such, the exhibit feels out of place in the museum.
The popular culture exhibit includes Michael Jackson's fedora hat and all the muppets created solely by Jim Henson. They look rather shabby, and there's only one whose name I recognize (Kermit). I'm glad Henson later got help.
The exhibit on the American Presidency has a fun and interesting video showing the various ways the president has been portrayed in popular culture. It uses clips from movies over the last hundred years. I also enjoyed in this exhibit the display about what presidents have done after their term (travel, advocacy, politics, and more). I connected with it because I frequently think about what to do after I stop working.
I was intrigued by the idea demonstrated in the exhibit on Jefferson's Bible. Basically, Jefferson took quotes he liked and made a book of them. I can imagine doing the same using many books.
By the way, although the length of this post may make it seem as if I wrote about every exhibit, I did not. I wrote what I felt like. Some days I wrote about everything I visited; other days I only referenced the exhibits I thought worthy of mentioning.
I didn't even manage to see all the permanent exhibits, let alone all the special exhibits that appeared during my stay in Washington D.C. I saw probably two-thirds of the permanent collection.
Posted by mark at Wednesday, June 20, 2012
The Smithsonian Castle, with its cafe and large information desk, is the central gathering spot for visitors to the Mall. It also has some exhibitions. I visited it on a few separate trips, all days on which I started my explorations before the museums opened at 10:00am. (The castle opens much earlier.)
I took a few pictures while at or in the castle.
Its West Wing has small displays with example items from every Smithsonian museum. It showed me I was more interested in the Air & Space Museum then I thought. Sadly, I never made it there.
Posted by mark at Tuesday, June 19, 2012
On Wednesday, October 16, 2011, Di Yin and I took a tour of the Pentagon. Though it required making reservations in advance, the only information requested was our names (no social security numbers or anything) so I can't imagine they did much of a security check other than perhaps looking to see if we were on the do-not-fly list.
It's definitely a high-security place. Two different people checked our IDs as we entered. This makes the "I Made It Inside" t-shirt for sale in the gift shop more humorous.
It's also not surprising that cell phones and cameras are prohibited for visitors. But it's interesting that these aren't allowed for anyone else either. Indeed, not only can one not take pictures inside (minor exception: within the visitors/press center it's okay), one cannot take pictures of the outside of the building either. There's even no photography allowed inside the nearby metro station!
In addition, visitors aren't allowed to use the bathroom or even dispose of garbage in a trash or recycling bin.
Furthermore, the Pentagon tries to limit the information one can acquire and transit to others. It prohibits note-taking on the tours! I think this is the first place I ever been that's done that. Thus, the majority of this entry comes from my memory with no assistance from notes.
Finally, a sign by the tour's starting location lists four rules, some of the aforementioned ones plus more. One rule is no translating allowed. I guess the Pentagon is worried about people coming on the tour and talking all the way through (under the pretense of translating) while plotting how to blow up the Pentagon. The sign listing rules was translated: it was posted in six languages.
But how about the tour and the Pentagon itself?
What struck me the most was how much more the Pentagon is than simply an office building. It's like a mall inside: a pharmacy, a bank, a chocolate store, a flower shop, a video rental shop, a cobbler, etc., and even something as large as a grocery store! All of these are only accessible to Pentagon employees. I asked the tour guide if I could buy something in the chocolate shop--I already knew what I wanted from the shop, and it's the only location of this chain in the Washington D.C. area--but the guide said no. The Pentagon also has restaurants, both fast-food and upscale. I glanced at a nicer restaurant we passed and the prices were reasonable. I guess all this support structure makes sense--twenty-five thousand employees work in the complex every day.
I glimpsed a map while walking around. It looks like the Pentagon has a complex address system. It's big enough to deserve one! I found a description of the system online.
Tidbit: despite its size, the Pentagon was built in about a year (in the early 1940s).
Many of the halls we walked through have exhibits. We didn't have time to read any of the displays, but the tour guides described each exhibit briefly as we walked. One hallway, for instance, honors General McArthur; another recognizes people missing in action.
Some hallways have paintings, including one with some by John Trumbull that have his self-portrait in them. Congress commissioned paintings of historic events but told the painter that he couldn't sign his paintings. Hence, he instead painted himself into the scenes in subtle ways. An example is Trumbell's Declaration of Independence. As the tour guide explained, Congress eventually got wise to this strategy and Trumbell's likeness became more camouflaged in his later works for Congress.
We spent the last third of the tour visiting the indoor Pentagon memorial. To get there, we walked down the corridor where the plane hit. Interestingly, although the plane damaged twenty percent of the building, it killed only about a hundred employees, not twenty percent of the building's population which would be several thousand. The hit section of the Pentagon was under renovation and most people had been moved elsewhere. Furthermore, the Pentagon was built originally without steel reinforcement, but this area under renovation fortuitously got steel reinforcement before the attack. Without the steel, the plane probably would've penetrated into the center of the building, not merely the outer three rings. This section was also the only area of the Pentagon with a sprinkler system.
By the way, the tour guides loved a story about the restaurant in center of the grassy area in the center of Pentagon. (They loved it so much that each of the two guides told the story, not realizing the other guide already did.) During the cold war, the Soviets, watching from their spy satellites, saw so many people entering and leaving the small central building that they assumed it must be the entrance to a secret underground part of the Pentagon and that the rest of the building was merely a distraction/cover for this section. In reality, the building was a hot dog stand.
Other interesting facts:
- The Pentagon has a speed limit: brisk walk. I bet this becomes significant during a crisis. It probably also prevents military folks from running loops for exercise.
- The Pentagon microwaves its incoming mail to eliminate pathogens.
Posted by mark at Monday, June 18, 2012
I explored the Library of Congress in two trips. I took pictures.
On the first trip, I took a tour of the Jefferson Building and saw some exhibits. The Jefferson Building is said to be the most beautiful building in Washington D.C. I can believe it. The interior is richly packed with mosaics and sculptures and more, so many that they're impossible to digest. One is merely aware of their plentiful abundance.
My tour guide was excited, enthusiastic. After a professionally-made intro video, she showed us around, showing us the highlights of the exhibits as well as the famous, incredible, grand Reading Room that sadly we were not allowed to photograph.
I learned some odd facts. For instance, the Library of Congress's attic had a high school for congressional pages. (The pages needed their own school because the hours they work would preclude a normal school.) For budgetary reasons, it closed in 2011. Also, despite continually acquiring new buildings the Library of Congress doesn't have enough space. They get 22k new items a day. The Library is an omnivorous history-documenting machine.
On the second visit, I saw more exhibits in the Jefferson Building and also visited the Madison Building for yet more. Over the course of my visits, I saw:
- The Bible exhibition.
- It includes a Gutenberg Bible--yes another (as if I haven't seen enough)--but this one is special: it's one of only three complete ones on vellum.
- It also has the Giant Bible of Mainz, another large, old bible. The draftsman has amazing handwriting--the text looks printed. Also interesting: the tour guide told stories about how the monk dropped words to stay within the lines. This was probably not the best thing for readability.
- An exhibit on creating America. This exhibit shows rough drafts and final printed version of the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution. It's also about important documents/events from the time (such as Thomas Paine's Common Sense and the peace treaty with the British), the first three presidents, and America's relationship with the French revolution.
- Thomas Jefferson's Library, which he sold to the Library of Congress to re-jump-start its collection in 1815. I saw re-jump-start because the original Library of Congress collection was mostly burnt by the British in 1814. Though some of his books were lost to various later fires, the Library of Congress acquired replacements (identical editions) of the burnt books. The books are organized according to Jefferson's scheme. The Library of Congress hopes to complete the collection.
- An exhibit on exploring the early Americas. It has books, paintings, and objects about explorers in America, focusing on indigenous people (including the Incas, Aztec, and Mayas), Columbus's voyages (with documents by and about him), the Spanish conquest of Mexico, and the fight over Florida.
- An exhibit of old maps (technically part of the previous exhibit), including the first map that used the term America (1507) and the first map created in America of America after independence. Regarding the former, it's surprising that the cartographer's later map (1516) covering the same region is less accurate.
- A fun exhibit of cartoons ("graphic arts") in a variety of styles from all ages. Technically this is composed of three small exhibits: on the history/growth of comic art, on Herbert L. Block's political cartoons, and on using cartoons to explore human nature or simply cause laughter. Regardless, the exhibits are done well, with detailed and intelligent commentary.
- The Bob Hope gallery on entertainment and politics and the connections between them, with a video introduction by Stephen Colbert. Most of the displays cover people in and changes to the entertainment industry and news media before my time, but I connected with and enjoyed the recent clips in the video displays.
- An exhibit on I Love Lucy.
- An exhibit of false-color bird's-eye maps presented for their artistic effect. See the pictures. (This was the only exhibit where I was allowed to take pictures and wanted to.)
- An exhibit on the Gershwins that I didn't find particularly interesting, probably because I don't know much of their work.
- A display of drawings of Americans in Paris in the nineteenth century.
Posted by mark at Sunday, June 17, 2012
The Diplomatic Reception Rooms are the fancy rooms the State Department uses when it wants to have formal meetings with foreign dignitaries. One day I arranged a tour. I took pictures on it.
The Diplomatic Reception Rooms are on the eighth floor of a nondescript State Department building that houses the diplomatic corps.
The rooms are lavishly decorated and meant to impress: America is important and can show off and we're honoring our guests by inviting them to such a place. They include a lot of antique furniture, paintings, and decorations from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Although some items were made in America, many were made overseas because the quality at the time was better. For instance, the rooms include hand-made Persian, Turkish, and neoclassical French rugs, Chinese porcelain, British chandeliers, and various types of secretary desks including Bombay and Oxbow. In terms of paintings, most are portraits of early Americans. As for the landscapes, it felt like the majority were of Niagara Falls! I guess it's a quintessential American site that was often painted during the time period in question.
Interestingly, a security guy followed us around on the tour with the tour guide. This didn't happen at the Pentagon (but those guides worked in pairs and were both military). This didn't even happen at the White House.
Posted by mark at Saturday, June 16, 2012
Early one cold winter morning, Di Yin and I walked the six blocks or so from our apartment to the White House. I'd arranged a tour through my congresswoman's office a few months prior as required. As we walked, the sun's early glow rose above the Washington Monument.
I didn't take pictures because cameras weren't allowed in the complex, so I didn't have mine with me. On other days I took pictures of the outside of the White House.
Security is provided by the "uniformed division" of the Secret Service. They look and act much like regular police. We passed through three explicit checkpoints, two where they checked our IDs and one with an x-ray machine. We also passed by multiple spots where guards simply eyed us as we walked by. I think they watch every intersection, every place where someone can deviate from where he or she should be.
On the White House grounds, our constrained route passed by the General William Tecumseh Sherman Monument. I liked the monument not for its main statue but rather for the life-size statues of guards standing watch at each corner of its base. It seemed appropriate. Here are other people's pictures of the monument from a distance, a close-up of a guard, and more pictures of the monument.
We entered the White House through the East Wing. Its hallways are lined with photos of White House events. One set of pictures are of White House gingerbread houses!
Our tour guide explained the East Wing has a movie screening room because it makes life easier for the Secret Service than letting the president go to a public movie theater.
The tour mainly focused on five important rooms in the central wing.
My overall impression is that the White House is the American equivalent to European royal palaces, though on a much smaller scale. Its decor is old-fashioned, with ornate (sometimes Persian) carpets and furniture that looks uncomfortable. The rooms are usually in eighteenth-century or French-Empire style. They all have twenty-foot ceilings.
I'm sure part of the reason it's old-fashioned is for historic reasons and historic sentimentality. The President has little say in how the public rooms are decorated. He can redecorate the private rooms such as the Oval Office at will. He even has the right to borrow art from the Hirshhorn Museum and the National Gallery of Art. Changes to the public room, on the other hand, have to be approved by committee (the Committee for the Preservation of the White House).
The East Room is a grand ballroom with reliefs on the ceiling and walls, three large hanging chandeliers, and many candelabras on columns and attached to walls. We noticed the windows have the old-style wavy type of glass.
The Green, Blue, and Red Rooms--all appropriately named--are smaller, more of a normal size. They all have surprisingly nice wall coverings (wallpaper, satin, or silk). When I read about the wallpaper, I assumed it would be ugly. I was wrong; these wall covers don't attract attention.
I like the artwork in the Green Room; it's a good variety from early American through the twentieth century. I liked a few paintings in this room, but the only one of those the tour guide mentioned the name of is Independence Hall in Philadelphia by Ferdinand Richardt. I also caught the name of two nice Red Room paintings: Rocky Mountain Landscape by Albert Bierstadt and The Indian's Vespers by Asher Durand. All these three rooms have fewer portraits than the East Room, though still at least half a dozen each.
In one of these rooms, Di Yin spotted a really nice looking paper quilled vase (as in quilling).
The State Dining Room, though the same size as the East Room, is, in terms of decorations, no East Room. It has one painting--of Abraham Lincoln--that was donated on condition that it hangs as the focal point in the room. Putting forth such a strong condition to the President of the United States takes chutzpah! Also, I was impressed in this room by the wooden tables with carved eagles as legs (picture).
We didn't get to go into the West Wing.
Curious fact I read in a guide book: in 1818, white lead paint replaced limestone whitewashing for the exterior of the White House. I think lead paint is still used. I can't find any evidence to the contrary despite extensive research on the web and in books.
At other times, I visited the White House Visitor Center. It houses a large display exploring many aspects of the house and life in it. Over the course of visits, I probably spent two and a half hours in it.
There I watched a good thirty minute video about the history of the White House and the many objects within it. Given the topics, you might be surprised to see me write that the video was interesting throughout.
The visitor center has large panels with pictures of the presidents' families and information about how they lived. It explores, for instance, what did their kids do in the White House, how do they make it their home, and what impact did they leave on it. There's lots of text here, but the stories are personal and interesting. I came back to read this stuff in depth.
There are also lots of panels on how the White House architecture and decorations have been renovated / redesigned over time. I thought it was neat to see before/after photos, as well as photos of the Oval Office under each president for the last fifty years. By the way, even if the White House decorations don't change much in style, much of the furniture is replaced regularly because it gets so much use.
The center has a display of large, vibrant paintings by Peter Waddell of his vision of White House interiors and exteriors at various points in time. They're both historic and artistic. They're lavishly painted with wonderful texture.
Posted by mark at Friday, June 15, 2012
One day I visited the Capitol, taking pictures along the way.
I'd arranged a tour. After an introductory video, we walked around the complex. There are many statues around, mostly of presidents. Naturally, the highlight of the tour was the rotunda.
Our tour group peeked in the original Supreme Court chamber. The Supreme Court used this chamber for sixty years, and was housed in the Capitol building for over a hundred years. So much for supposedly temporary quarters.
We also stopped by the crypt room. Originally it was intended that George Washington be buried there in the center of the Capitol. However, it took too long to build the Capitol--by the time it was done, no one wanted to disinter him to move him there.
I learned a decent amount on the tour and liked the rotunda but overall found the tour none too exciting. I was disappointed that we didn't get to see the current House or Senate chambers. Also, I noticed lots of informative signs around. We didn't get to read them because we were shepherded around by our tour guide. I wonder who gets to read them beside legislators and staff. It's too bad, as judging by their number they must have more information than conveyed by the guide.
After the tour I explored the exhibition hall. It has exhibits on the Capitol and its history, as well as on the evolution of policies within the House and Senate. Some of the stories about debates, bills, compromises, amendments, parliamentary activities, investigations, corruption, and power brokering were quite interesting. For instance, the Senate was originally a closed-door body until the state legislatures--who at the time often directed how their senators should vote--protested the lack of visibility and accountability.
I also learned about the jobs of people in the building, and about the short subway connecting the Capitol to its associated office buildings.
In exhibition hall, there are lots of models showing details of parts of the Capitol building, and models of the building at various points in time. These latter models are smart because they also show the the buildings near the Capitol. For instance, one can see when Union Station and the Supreme Court Building showed up.
The exhibitions are well done. Because I read everything, I spent a long time in the exhibition hall.
Posted by mark at Thursday, June 14, 2012
I walked and biked across and around The Mall--Washington's long strip of grass from the Capitol to the Lincoln Memorial--many times. Sometimes it was to play host to visitors; sometimes it was to explore museums; sometimes it was to examine monuments; sometimes it was simply to walk or jog or run. The Mall was an easy destination because I lived so close to it.
I collected the pictures I took in various visits to the Mall. Some visits were short one-offs; others were day-long sight-seeing of memorials. The pictures are in chronological order, which means that often sites near each other are adjacent in the album but sometimes they're not if I visited them on separate days.
Annoyingly, the Mall gradually closed. When I arrived in Washington D.C., the area around the reflecting pool near the Lincoln Memorial was entirely off-limits as it was being rebuilt. After I arrived, as winter approached the Park Service shut more and more grassy segments to do rebuilding or at least replanting over the winter. Though I laud the goals, I want to complain that these construction sites blighted the landscape. February became worse with more construction as building started for the African American Museum. The spring wasn't much better; if anything it was worse, with huge mounds of dirt of being dug up on the eastern half of the Mall in order to rebuild grounds for better drainage and more sustainable lawns.
Posted by mark at Wednesday, June 13, 2012
Here are several short descriptions of my impressions of neighborhoods in or near Washington D.C. Some neighborhoods deserved longer write-ups: Penn Quarter and Chinatown, Dupont Circle, Georgetown, and Old Town Alexandria. Those neighborhoods are not included here. For general impressions of Washington D.C. as a whole, see my overview post.
Adams Morgan is quirky and eclectic. The commercial streets have some unusual shops. Residentially, the housing consists of densely packed row houses, mostly all individualized (i.e., different from their neighbors').
On a blustery, surprisingly warm (for being post-Thanksgiving) Sunday, I found myself wandering around Cleveland Park. It's an upscale neighborhood, perhaps even more so than Dupont Circle. Both these neighborhoods have embassies, but Cleveland Park consists of nice single-family homes and a relatively smaller number of apartment buildings whereas Dupont Circle is mostly townhouses. This means the majority of buildings in Cleveland Park are larger and more expensive. That said, Cleveland Park's commercial area isn't anything like Dupont Circle's.
Indeed, many months later, I had a reason to further explore Cleveland Park's commercial strip. I found it's a charming neighborhood center, several blocks long, filled with single-story, densely packed shops. Some of the charm comes from its older feel, including for instance an old-fashioned movie theater. The commercial area has everything you'd want; as such, it could be a small town's downtown. But, it actually has too much stuff for a small town--its density and variety could only be supported by having the density of a city around it.
After writing this section, I read more about Cleveland Park. I agree with its tagline: "A small town in the city." It has the feel of a small town center yet is more than a small town center.
U Street is an up-and-coming neighborhood. I understand it's been up-and-coming for a decade or two now. It seems a bit stagnant; there's no obvious new developments. It's fairly hip, at least judging by the restaurants, but it could use more, or at least more shops. There are occasional gloomy, closed buildings.
Di Yin and I liked the look of an modern apartment building nearby and its many big plate glass windows.
Further away from the main commercial section, U Street is edgy. For instance, off the eastern end (near the Shaw metro station), all businesses have bars in their windows. This area has lots of African stuff. For instance, one short block had three African (including Ethiopian) restaurants. I heard lots of a language I didn't recognize. There are also lots of fences in this neighborhood for construction/repair zones. We were in that east end for dinner (Ethiopian, naturally), but it's not really a destination. U Street itself is a destination for some people however, though not for us. Over the course of the year we didn't find ourselves there very often.
I stopped by this neighborhood twice, only briefly for pizzas. It seems like a nice, modern, yuppie neighborhood, with many upper-middle-class chain restaurants and big-box chain stores. Everything looks new. It reminded me of Clarendon except this neighborhood is built up. Around the metro station are high-rise residential buildings with commercial establishments in the first story. Meanwhile, Clarendon is relatively flat, with few buildings more than a couple of stories.
On my second trip (for pizza at a different place), we left the town center. The older residential section was mostly well-kept-up townhouses with deep, attractive front gardens. We found neighborhood restaurants and bars on some corners. They felt like community places. I could live in this area.
Indeed, the town felt like an integrated community. We saw evidence that whites, blacks, and hispanics all lived in the area (walking dogs, carrying groceries, etc.). Di Yin guessed that the white people are newer folk, gentrifying the neighborhood, and the big name retailers are coming with them.
H Street NE is a neighborhood we kept hearing about, the new up-and-coming neighborhood replacing U Street. On various bus and driving trips that passed through this area, we saw fast food joints and an intriguing restaurant or two but not much of anything overall. We weren't impressed.
It was only near the end of our stay in D.C. that we made it there in person, for a Japanese (ramen) restaurant. By this point, I had tips from various people for half a dozen restaurants in this neighborhood. We walked the eight or so blocks of the main commercial strip eying stores. It definitely seems like a hipster destination, certainly more so than U Street. It's funkier. I felt more comfortable on H Street than U Street. (Don't take that to mean I'm claiming to be a hipster.) I think it's that H Street shops tend to sell food or items that people became interested in over the last five years whereas U Street shops moved in years earlier and thus tend to be for things that interest me less at the moment.
When friends visited, we'd take them on strolls around the Mall, sometimes at night. I wrote more about the Mall in a different post.
Not everything one hears generalizing about good and bad neighborhoods is true. For instance, one day I walked from the Capitol through SE D.C. to the Navy Yard / waterfront. (Some guides warn visitors against traveling outside NW D.C., saying the other sides are unsafe. For what it's worth, all the neighborhoods in D.C. listed above are in NW.) The southeast is a perfectly nice area. I first passed townhouses then, across the highway, perfectly respectable apartment buildings. Many people I saw wore suits and/or government badges. I spent another half an hour walking in SE circumnavigating the Navy Yard, and thought the neighborhood was fine.
Crystal City, Arlington (VA)
Crystal City is a neat place. We went to a restaurant there for dinner one evening and were impressed by the area's extensive underground malls and tunnels. Stretching more than half a mile in length, these passageways connect numerous apartment buildings, hotels, and office buildings with about two hundred shops (including several dozen restaurants covering a breadth of price points and cuisines), a metro station, and even a theater. One could get anything one needs without going outside, a great boon in cold weather. A bonus: the mall's/tunnel's walls were decorated with a huge photography exhibit. It was fun to gawk and walk. I'm led to believe that there's usually some sort of exhibit on display.
Clarendon, Arlington (VA)
I liked the feel of Clarendon on my first visit there years earlier and I still liked it on my first trip this year. It's a nice, walkable neighborhood center, filled with many shops, restaurants, and grocery stores. The architecture and especially the store selection reminded me more of California than another neighborhood in the Washington D.C. metro area. The Pinkberry shop perhaps drove that comment, but the area also has both Trader Joe's and Whole Foods, two stores one doesn't tend to see close together except in California.
Eden Center, Falls Church (VA)
One day when we had a car, Di Yin and I stopped by Eden Center in Falls Church. Like San Jose's Little Saigon, it's the Vietnamese center of the metro region. In a couple small indoor malls and large strip malls, Eden Center has dozens of restaurants, cafes, bakeries, and bars. It's a panoply of Vietnamese dining. It's clear the landlord doesn't enforce any variety in types of shops; there are many places competing with identical business models. Besides these restaurants, there are many jewelry shops, a few salons, a grocery store, and a handful of other types of shops.
Interestingly, the parking lot flies the American flag and the flag that South Vietnam flew before the Vietnamese war (and lost to the communists).
I wrote about my impressions of Old Town Alexandria in another post. During another visit, this time in the evening between Thanksgiving and Christmas, we observed Old Town's main street was nicely decorated for the holidays with lights in every tree.
One day Di Yin and I met a friend with a car (E) for lunch in Del Ray. Del Ray was a town near Alexandria built mainly in 1895-1930. Annexed by the town of Alexandria, Del Ray is now considered a historic neighborhood within it. Although we didn't walk around Del Ray, I feel I got a good impression of the neighborhood from our drive through it.
Del Ray is a nice middle-/upper-middle- class town. Along Mount Vernon, the main street, are a selection of quirky, fun shops and restaurants. The coolest thing about the street, however, is its architecture. The stores are either in row-shops, small stand-alone buildings, or converted single-family houses. It's a nice medley of styles, and all have a built-a-while-ago historic feel (though all are well-maintained). Not as densely packed as a modern urban street, nor with large-scale shops like modern suburban streets, it feels like an old-fashioned main street. Meanwhile, the residential areas nearby are similarly low-scale, with small-ish, old-ish single-family houses and townhouses.
Bethesda's town center is large. I biked through the town on multiple occasions and took the metro there on other occasions (mostly to eat) and rarely went down the same street twice. On every trip, I discovered new streets with blocks of restaurants and shops. At every time of day, there were always people on the streets. Maybe not as many people as in Georgetown, but it was always happening. One evening we found a professional band performing in a square.
The buildings are relatively tall in this vicinity, many a dozen stories. They look residential. I'd guess Bethesda has a higher population density than the area around most other metro stations.
The whole area feels new/modern and clean. It's definitely one of the nicer suburban destinations compared to others around D.C. and around most other cities.
I twice made the trek to Rockville for Chinese food. (It has a large Chinese population.) Rockville is definitely suburban. I visited its town center, which seems like a smaller version of Reston's town center, including the central plaza / performance area and nearby library. The analogy to Reston's town center stretches further, as the roads around Rockville's town center are likewise large, high-speed roads, sometimes traffic-clogged. Outside the town center, it's not a town meant for walking.
Posted by mark at Tuesday, June 12, 2012
One Friday (?) evening we visited Georgetown. It was hopping! The streets were crowded with people out for a night on the town. Window-shopping was a common activity--Georgetown has many upscale shops. We enjoyed the atmosphere and the look of the place: the brownstone buildings and the nearby canals with some nice bridges. I saw these bridges more when biking during the daytime but thought they looked better at night. We only walked through part of Georgetown. It's much more expansive than Palo Alto, though both have the same type of restaurants and shops and feel of fanciness.
Incidentally, we passed an Apple Store where people left statements and tokens of affection in memory of Steve Jobs.
When we left, we said we should hang out in this neighborhood more. It took us another month or two to return, and on that trip we didn't spend much more time in Georgetown. When we headed home from our second trip, we again said we should hang out in this neighborhood more. :)
A month later, we made it again, this time during the daytime. We walked along the main street and, unlike the previous times, also along the canal. I took pictures (though oddly none of the main street--I need another trip...).
On another trip, my camera was acting up so I didn't take pictures. This time I noticed that Georgetown, besides having high-end shops such as clothing boutiques, also has many stores in the Restoration-Hardware vein.
In all, we made many trips to Georgetown. I never ended up with additional pictures. Perhaps the most recent memorable trip involved a multi-hour walk on a hot day, first along Q Street through the residential section, then through downtown, along the commercial M Street, then across and west along the canal, then across the bridge to Rosslyn and back, then back along the M Street with a zig down to the waterfront for a stroll along it, then back up to a commercial section near/across the canal, and finally back to M Street. (We had a guest who wanted to see the town, so see it we did.)
Posted by mark at Monday, June 11, 2012
One day while on an outing around lunchtime midweek I stumbled upon the White House Farmers Market. It was quite a change compared with my two regular markets (Penn Quarter and Dupont Circle). The market's medium-sized, a bit bigger than Penn Quarter's. The mix of stands was different than both those markets: half of it was cooked food. I spotted some great looking fish patties and glazed pumpkin cookies. Too bad I didn't have time to try anything, and too bad I discovered this only near the end of my time in D.C. so couldn't return another time.
Posted by mark at Sunday, June 10, 2012
Di Yin and I saw Eastern Market in pieces over multiple days: Saturday, November 19, 2011, Sunday, January 1, 2012, and Saturday, January 28, 2012. I took pictures on these visits. Di Yin took a few pictures on one visit. The latter link goes to her first picture of the market (picture #28 in the album). When you see a picture of a balloon caught in a tree (picture #37), you're done with her pictures from Eastern Market. I'll link to her other pictures in that album in other posts.
The market complex has a long farmers market aisle outside. All vegetables have multiple producers selling them. Although some prices at some stands are not reasonable, you can find reasonable prices for any item if you look around. If you do so it's certainly cheaper than my local Penn Quarter market.
Another aisle or two outside has artsy things, fairly decent stuff. There's also a section for jewelry.
Inside has tons of butchers, selling meat of any cut and style from virtually any animal. I saw bison steaks, rabbit, duck sausages, boar sausages, and much, much more. There's also a large fish vendor, a decent-sized cheese shop, a few vegetables stands, a bakery or two, and a place with an astoundingly long line, Market Lunch, that serves breakfast, brunch, and lunch.
Across the street is a flea market, and not a trashy one.
It's a destination area. Hence naturally there are lots of cafes and boutiques in the area.
We didn't often go to Eastern Market; it was a bit too much trouble compared with buying our foodstuffs at grocery stores and our local markets.
Posted by mark at Saturday, June 09, 2012
One day when three friends (B, C, and E) were in town, we followed a tip to explore the Maine Avenue Fish Market. It's a bit more than a mile walk from my apartment down to its location on the waterfront.
The fish market is outside. I took pictures. Di Yin did many more. The market is apparently one of the last remaining open-air seafood markets on the east coast, and one of the oldest such markets in the United States.
We ate lunch there. I tried the fried red snapper special, a huge chunk of fish (with bones) served on white bread. It was decent but plain. I was given every possible topping: tartar sauce, tabasco sauce, cocktail sauce, and ketchup. It came with a sub-par coleslaw of finely diced cabbage in mayo.
The highlight of my meal was hush puppies, deep-fried balls of corn meal. Those brought me back to my childhood.
I also tried some items my friends bought including large raw oysters (good) and ceviche (bleh, not really ceviche or sashimi for that matter).
For cooking later, we bought flounder (which Di Yin steamed Chinese style) which we discovered wasn't as good as sole cooked in a similar fashion, mackerel (broiled Japanese style) which we declared good and put on our regular rotation*, and sardines (broiled, already on our regular rotation). In later visits, we bought more seafood including squid and more mackerel.
I find it interesting that the prices for all the fish are the same between different sections/wings of the market. It's not clear to me whether all these sections are the same vendor. I'd be surprised if they are because then the displays would be rather redundant.
The fish market provides inexpensive cleaning/gutting. Given the ambiance, it's exactly what you'd expect: men in a small room with big knifes, big counters, big sinks, nozzles for spraying down all surfaces, and buckets for unusable parts. No pictures allowed.
Over the next year, we revisited the fish market multiple times, Di Yin many more than I. We often got shrimp or squid. Sometimes we bought fish. Two of those times we decided to clean and gut the fish ourselves. We learned it's pretty easy and fast if you're willing to make a mess and have scales fly everywhere. Once we bought live Maryland blue crabs, which Di Yin cooked Singapore-chili-crab style. Gosh, crabs are a pain to eat. They're also a pain to kill. I tried to many techniques, all too gruesome to describe here.
* at some point we removed most species of mackerel from our regular rotation due to their high levels of mercury
Posted by mark at Friday, June 08, 2012
On my first weekend in D.C., Di Yin and I met some friends to visit Dupont Circle's farmers market and to eat brunch. Dupont Circle, as I reported on a visit years before, is a nice neighborhood with a ton of embassies and well maintained townhouses, many with lovely gardens out front. Though some embassies are handsome, some (Sudan, Togo, others) on Embassy Row (Massachusetts Avenue near Dupont Circle) are modest places, normal townhouses fifteen feet wide.
Dupont Circle's regular residences are nice. They're all different. They have character. I could make wandering the streets a habit and I'd never get bored. I never took pictures in this neighborhood because I knew that if I took one I'd want to take another on the next block and another on the next and it wouldn't stop.
Dupont Circle's farmers market is big and first-rate, beautiful and colorful with lots of flowers and vegetables. It's respectable compared to those in California. Indeed, it has much more pasture-raised meat than I've seen at a market in California.
I tried a "tsu li" and "ya li", two types of Chinese pears that I haven't seen before. Interestingly, the farmer says they keep for ten months! The spottier one was sourer. I prefer the cleaner. Di Yin also prefers the cleaner; she says it's crisper.
I returned to the farmers market during the winter when my local one was closed (the Dupont Circle farmers market is year-round) and often during the spring simply because its selection was so large. During one time I visited it was snowing, admittedly with very light, sporadic snowflakes, but snowing the nonetheless. My fingers were so cold--I wore thin gloves--that I was worried they might go numb.
Our most common purchase was various leafy greens: collards, kales, etc. We found these in abundance in various varieties, often organic.
At times I grabbed breakfast from the main bakery at the market. The mixed fruit scones I got were always quite good (and I say this though I'm usually indifferent to scones), as was its ginger scone. The muffins were less exciting: the fig muffin didn't taste much like fig, and the raspberry-almond muffin was a bit weird because the raspberry came in the form of a jam baked into the muffin. Regardless, I liked how its selection of breakfast pastries changed often; one never knew what was going to be on offer.
There was another bakery serving French pastries (breakfast and dessert ones) as well as savory French baked goods (quiches, etc.).
Over time, I also started appreciating the flower stands, which sold single stems at reasonable prices, and the bison stand, which sold every imaginable cut. I bought and cooked bison several times. I also began regularly bringing a single flower stem home to brighten up our studio.
The main thing I missed at the market compared to California is that the fruit-growing season starts later and is shorter in this area. Berries, peaches, melons and the like were rare.
Posted by mark at Thursday, June 07, 2012
I went to a farmers market on my first full day in Washington D.C. Its awesomeness is that it's a mere block-and-a-half from my apartment! This means I went pretty much every week or at least every other week I was in town.
The Penn Quarter Farmers Market happens in late afternoon on every Thursday. It's small, yet manages to cover every type of ingredient one may want want to buy. Although the list of booths changed a bit week to week, in general there are two general vegetable stands, two more that mainly specialize in fruit, a mushroom specialist, a stand that only sells salad greens of various types, two cheese/yogurt stands (one also sells skin cream and soap), a bakery, a prepared food stand, an empanadas stand, a pasta-and-soup-and-jam stand, a cured food stand (pate, sausages, duck confit, etc.), a fresh meat stand (free range chicken and pork, grass-fed cow and lamb), a gelato stand, two flower shops, and an artisan soap stand.
The fruit stands mainly sell a huge variety of apples--more than I've seen in the bay area, including many I hadn't heard of--as well as an assortment of pears, including multiple Asian varieties. I got in the habit of eating apples and pears every day. Indeed, when the market closed in late December for the winter, I was in such a habit that I stocked up, buying 13 pounds of fruit to last me the following three or four weeks. Over the winter I then began going to the Dupont Circle Farmers Market--which is open year-round--for my fruit and other needs.
In the spring I became a regular visitor to one flower shop, regularly bringing a single flower stem home to brighten up our studio. I really enjoyed this. It cost only a dollar or two (depending on the flower). I'm sad I can't do it anywhere else in the country: no other places I've seen sell individual stems; all sell bouquets for $10-15.
The bakery sells bread and pastries, including scones, muffins, and croissants. Oddly, it sells chocolate, almond, and ham-and-cheese croissants but no plain ones. One day I tried the pain au chocolate and found it decent: buttery but not flaky. I also tried a physically-heavy almond croissant, which was good. Like the pain au chocolate, the dough had the right flavor even if it wasn't flaky, and the almond paste inside added just the right amount of flavor without adding too much sweetness. Later, I tried the almond macaroons, which tasted like the sweet almond-paste that made the croissant so tasty.
On other days I tried a blueberry muffin, a pumpkin-apple-something muffin, a cherry-almond muffin, and a carrot-apple-pineapple-and-some-sort-of-nut muffin. I thought the first three were fairly good but sweeter than I like. The latter was simply good; it was naturally sweet from the carrots but didn't feel like it had extra/excessive added sugar.
I also tried one of the bakery's small cheddar-and-bacon scones which turned out to taste more of cheddar than of bacon. It was more like a crumbly (buttermilk?) biscuit than a scone. Alright, but not really my thing. I enjoyed the currant and macadamia nut scone more. It was more scone-like, though I don't think the nuts went with it. Even later I tried the fig (& something) scone and found it the best yet. The figs, cut in sizable chunks, were good and went well with the crumbly, scone-like dough that had a bit of a toasted flavor (whole grain?).
I bought a loaf of the bakery's extraordinarily expensive tasting bread for a dinner party. A sweet bread, it was densely filled with unidentifiable masses of dried fruits (supposedly cherries and currants) and hazelnuts. I toasted it as recommended and served it as an appetizer. Everyone enjoyed it; it was neat and tasty and festive.
The empanadas stand has surprisingly many flavors: tilapia, crab, chicken, beef, mushroom, etc. The stand is often sold out by the time I arrive. My verdict on the mushroom empanada: the crust was good and buttery and with a dash of salt. It was remarkably thin--thinner than other empanadas I've had--making the filling the focus. Good. The spinach empanada I had on a different visit was similar, with a thin crust and heavy emphasis on the filling. Another time, I had a crawfish-and-mango empanada. It was good, with the definitive taste of shellfish and some sweetness from the mango. The smoked salmon empanada was similarly good. The smoked salmon wasn't like lox but rather like whole salmon, smoked, then flaked. The empanada was full of it. Incidentally, the stand also sells crab cakes, some soups, and, at times, savory scones. I bought a savory scone with prosciutto and some sort of slightly spicy cheese. I liked it quite a bit; not just the ham-and-cheese taste but also its texture. I bought it once or twice again.
At times I bought items from the pricy pasta-and-jam stand. Di Yin and I tried the pulled pork tortellini and duck confit ravioli. Both were good, with the flavor of the main ingredient shining straight through (i.e., they're exactly as described), yet the tastes were somehow unsophisticated and therefore not great. By the way, in case you're wondering what kind of jams a pasta shop like this sells, I wrote down one flavor: strawberry vanilla bean.
In case my comment about apples and pears didn't convince you that Washington D.C.'s farmers markets have some appeal even when compared with California's, I should mention I spotted a vegetable I never saw previously: pole lima beans. I've seen lima beans for sale in California but never the type grown on vines/poles.
Posted by mark at Wednesday, June 06, 2012
Di Yin's fellowship provided housing! They own a bunch of condos in two buildings downtown. The condo they gave us was a decent-sized studio. The walk-in closet was large enough that we easily had enough space for all of our stuff despite it being a studio. The studio came nicely furnished: simple, tasteful furniture, modern appliances (including a dishwasher, washing machine, and dryer), and posters from the National Gallery of Art on the walls. The appliances were designed well. The microwave had the best user interface I've seen. The refrigerator had reconfigurable shelving. The oven racks folded, meaning you can have a rack that extends only halfway across the oven. Although we didn't use this feature, I imagine it can be helpful if you have a tall pot in the oven and want to cook enough other items that you need partial racks. It's just another example of the well-designed appliances. Also, the gas stove was very nice, with strong, even heat (not as strong as the gas stoves in China but better than others I've used in the States).
In contrast to the quality of the appliances within the condo, as we discovered in January, the building's water boiler wasn't powerful enough to keep up with the usage on cold mornings. Showers were lukewarm. This lasted only a week, at which point the weather warmed a bit. Or they fixed it. In either case, it didn't affect our lives much.
I enjoyed that many of Di Yin's coworkers lived in the same building. This made it easy to have dinner parties or simply drop by to say hello.
When I said the apartment was downtown, I meant it. Pennsylvania Avenue is the street that runs from the Capitol to the White House. We were a block off Pennsylvania Avenue, about halfway between those two reference points. Naturally, this part of the city is called the Penn Quarter.
Being downtown had its negatives. A building across the alley from us was under renovation, and the workers started at around 6:30am or 7:00am. I was usually woken by the sound of trucks backing up and dumpsters being emptied. I could hear construction noise the rest of the day, but those early morning noises were the loudest. I don't know why they didn't do the loudest activities at a more reasonable time.
I loved that I could walk to the Mall and its many (free) museums in ten or fifteen minutes. I also loved that I was two blocks from Washington D.C.'s central library. In addition, because we were in the center of the city, we were near multiple metro stations. This meant we could easily catch trains on any line--no need to transfer--and only had to stay on the train for a handful of stations before we got anywhere we wanted to go.
Conveniently, our apartment was located about halfway between Di Yin's work and mine. We each could walk to work in less than fifteen minutes. In rare instances, the walk was exciting. BP has a floor in the same building as my company and in a neighboring building--sometimes there were protests.
I liked how the area near my apartment was well lit at night. Lots of street lamps. Di Yin also said the fact that the FBI building is across the street made her feel safe.
Penn Quarter is mostly a commercial district. In the vicinity are various nice fast-food restaurants such as Cosi, Pret A Manger, Paul's, Potbelly, Qdoba, and Starbucks. There are also various nice chain restaurants: McCormick & Schmick's, Gordon Biersch, Hard Rock Cafe, Ruth's Chris, etc. There are also a bunch of independent restaurants. Of these, we visited Cure Bar & Bistro, located in the grand atrium of a hotel lobby, for a good meal in an impressive, stylish place.
There are various dessert-y places nearby. Crumbs Bake Shop (a chain) makes pastries, especially cupcakes. The variety is incredible. They make about eighty different flavors, though I'd guess from appearances that only about a third of them are available on any given day. Regardless, it's still an enormous selection. Tangysweet sells frozen yogurt. The classic is fairly tart. During one visit the special flavor was banana. The toppings policy is a crowd-pleaser: if you pay for toppings, you get as much as you want of as many types as you want as long as you can fit them in the cup. There was another frozen yogurt place, one which sells by the ounce, that isn't very good. The more-sophisticated Pitango (a local chain) offers gelato & sorbets in lots of intriguing flavors. I was most tempted by the fruity ones: banana, pineapple, white grapefruit, cantaloupe, mojito, quince, and rhubarb, but was also interested in the spicy chocolate, hazelnut, and orange dark chocolate gelatos. Eventually I tried Pitango during the summer heat waves.
The neighborhood known as Chinatown is adjacent to Penn Quarter. It's a few blocks to the east-northeast from our apartment. The neighborhood has nothing to do with China. It's an odd place. There's little Chinese there, but everything that is there has a Chinese name on its sign, including places such as Clyde's (bar & grill) and the Marriott (hotel). One doesn't see Chinese people in Chinatown (but then one doesn't see many in Washington D.C. in general). Instead, I'm told the neighborhood has some of the city's top restaurants, and none of these are Chinese. It's basically a stylish destination; the China connection is mostly historical. Even the big Chinese gate is a recent introduction; it was built in 1986.
I visited the library regularly to pick up books and DVDs. Its collection is large and it's easy to request delivery from other libraries within the D.C. system. I didn't tend to hang around / browse the library much because it was an older building and not particularly welcoming (though not unpleasant) and because the DVDs in particular are so disorganized that I couldn't often find what was supposed to be there. Instead, I just requested the items. The library also has the negative of most major city's central libraries: a large number of homeless people and, about half the time, the smell of pee near the entrance.
Occasionally the library had exhibits in its lobby. It once had an exhibit on Jews in Washington D.C., the first time I heard a discussion of this topic. The exhibit described how the Jewish community evolved over time in Washington D.C. from the first synagogues (which soon became reform) to the influx of eastern European immigrants and the spawning of more orthodox synagogues to the gradual acceptance of Jews in government and politics. I particularly enjoyed seeing Jews alongside African-Americans protesting segregated parks in the 1960s; it felt an appropriate scene to be shown in the Martin Luther King, Jr. Library.
By the way, I took pictures at random times of things I spotted in my neighborhood.
Posted by mark at Tuesday, June 05, 2012
On Wednesday, September 24, 2011, I, the revenant son, returned after a long absence to my youth home, the Washington D.C. area.
I ate a good breakfast in the morning, then headed to the airport. Getting to the airport to catch my flight was an adventure that bears not repeating.
I flew Frontier, possibly for the first time. It seems like a decent airline. All the seats were fake leather and had a personal TV. Interestingly, there seemed to be only one class of seat. But the best feature was that they serve warm chocolate chip cookies on every flight.
I transferred in Denver. I like the Denver airport's architecture, or at least that of Terminal A. Also, the Denver airport has a fairly good selection of promising-looking restaurants including a brewery. I ate in a diner-y one; it was good. I also browsed the terminal's photography exhibit. I wouldn't mind transferring in Denver again.
I landed in Washington National (DCA), a small airport that's the closest airport to Washington D.C. In contrast to Denver, DCA was drab and ugly (or at least its Terminal A).
Heading outside to catch my shuttle, I observed it was a balmy, pleasant night, nice weather to arrive into. Funnily, I recognized the news, traffic, and weather radio station (WTOP) playing in the airport shuttle even though I hadn't thought about it in years.
I saw the Washington Monument the instant the shuttle left the airport. We then quickly crossed the Potomac and passed some of the Mall's memorials. It was a nice welcome to the city. I'm glad I took the shuttle instead of the metro (which would have caused me to miss these sites).
Posted by mark at Monday, June 04, 2012